Full Book List
Full book list of all available new books. Alphabetical by author.
This collection of Questions & Answers was chosen from the best of nearly two decades of testing the readers of Bee Culture. They cover every aspect of honey bee biology, colony management, pollination, and the products of the hive.
There are over 400 pages and just over 2,550 questions, and answers, in this book. Now’s your chance to test your beekeeping knowledge. No matter how long you’ve been keeping bees, when you’re done you’ll know more about this craft, and be a better beekeeper.
Popular lecturer and Bee Culture author Dr. Larry Connor examines essential aspects of making new bee colonies, from swarms or packages, purchased hives or nuclei. He looks at the impact of modern life on beekeeping, and the changes every beekeeper faced in light of Varroa mites and African bees. He suggests that for many beekeepers, the option of wintering nucleus colonies provides a source of fresh bees locally acclimatised queens, replacement hives, colonies for sale. Drawing on the concepts of Lanstroth, Doolitle and Brother Adam, the author distills his unique academic and commercial experience with bees, beekeeping, queen rearing and colony management into a concise and thought-provoking book.
The second edition adds more methods of making increase colonies and includes recent developments in the science of bees biology. The second edition is larger than its predecessor and in full colour.
“Detailed and practical manual a must have book for every beekeeper filled with astounding photographs. In this post-varroa, post-Colony Collapse Syndrome era, beekeepers everywhere are developing localized, mite resistant bee stocks. Key to this is their ability to raise queen cells and queens. Bee Culture / American Bee Journal author Dr. Larry Connor describes a very successful queen rearinf method using Starter and Finisher colonies. Connor also wrote Increased Essentials and Bee Sex Essentials. Very detailed and practical manual for raising queens on a small scale from locally selected stock. Larry offers a tested and proven method to teach backyarders how best to improve beekeeping stock for greater return and enjoyment”. – Dr. Dewey M. Caron, University of Delaware, Emeritus Professor.Queen Rearing Essentials provides today’s beekeepers with a clear, concise, and simple method to not only produce their own queens, but to actively improve their stock. Dr. Connor has distilled extensive information into a simple plan that any beekeeper can follow. Queen Rearing Essentials is a must have book for every beekeeper. – Greg Hannaford, Chairman, Northeast Oklahoma Beekeepers Association Combines astounding photographs with vital information in one of the most comprehensive queen rearing books ever. A short, precise, and very clear book. Explains a method used by thousands of beekeepers to raise queens on any scale! – Blake Shook, President, Collin County (Texas) Hobby Beekeepers Association.
Richard Adee – whose honey farm is the largest in the world says – A scientific book written from a beekeeper’s perspective. Easy to read and understand. It covers all the biological facets of the honeybee, especially those associated with queen rearing. Every beekeeper should have a copy on his desk or in his library.
“Spend less time reading how to assemble a frame and more time understanding what it takes for you and the bees to produce the wax, honey and pollen that goes into that comb. This is a book focused on compassionate animal husbandry. There is a strong ‘natural’ focus for beekeepers who want to avoid or minimise pesticides and reduce stress on the bees. A book of thought-provoking, science-based discussion designed for individuals and beekeeping clubs who mentor new beekeepers. [..] this book should be in everyone’s library or more importantly in every bee bag or bee truck for a quick reference to that one issue that eludes your knowledge base.” Becky Jones, CT.
“Natural Beekeeping is a wonderful book, beautifully written and illustrated, about how one can have healthy hives of bees without using synthetic pesticides, antibiotics, or artificial diets. Ross Conrad explains in fine detail that the key ingredients of organic beekeeping are disease-resistant stock, f avorable apiary sites, and good colony management, plus a reverence and respect for the bees.” -Thomas D. Seeley, Cornell University.
A system of queen rearing developed by the author in the commercial field of beekeeping whilst in New Zealand but with a practical application for all beekeepers. When Vince Cook returned to the UK he was appointed National Bees Adviser to the MAFF.
For some years I have taken to writing an essay for the Essay Class in the National Honey Show. I was delighted to be receiving either a Third or a Very Highly Commended ticket. Then in 2009 The Art of Coarse Beekeeping won me first prize to be followed by another first for Bees and Darwin in 2010. I would like to think that you will enjoy reading them as much as I enjoyed writing them.
EXTRACT FROM THE BOOK:
CHAPTER 8. THE ART OF COARSE BEEKEEPING.
You must consider carefully before following the path of coarse beekeeping. Its disciples must have the same dedication and attention to fine detail as those who take up any other intricate hobby such as piano smashing.
The first steps of the coarse beekeeper are easy. Your local library will provide you with a copy of one of the many books written by an experienced beekeeper which will illustrate the equipment needed and describe in detail the life style of the honey bee. Many experienced beekeepers feel it is incumbent on them to write such a book.
Do remember to renew you possession of the book at the library before fines are imposed, that would never do.
The same library may be able to put you in touch with a local beekeeping association and give you details of their meetings. You should go to a meeting and introduce yourself as being keen to learn about the craft. At this stage a demonstration of enthusiasm works wonders. It might also get you a copy of a beekeeping equipment dealers catalogue. This will save you having to contact one since none, so far as I know, have 0800 telephone numbers. Although allowing yourself to enquire generally about membership and the possibility of free beekeeping classes your enthusiasm should not allow you to actually pay a subscription.
Reading the catalogue together with the beginner’s book will immediately convince you that your first pound of honey could be very expensive indeed. However the coarse beekeeper knows that no corner must be left uncut in the search for true perfection.
Your occasional attendance at a meeting, or the hoped for classes, will allow you time to gather up the minimum amount of such essential equipment that can’t be substituted by other items. A longish screwdriver and a paint scraper from your toolbox would replace a hive tool. A suitable length of net curtain worn over a broad brimmed hat and tucked well into a jacket could well replace safety equipment such as a veil. A more sophisticated version I have seen is an old fencing mask with further material sewn around it to prevent access by bees. A replacement for a smoker is more difficult unless of course you are a smoker yourself in which case a pipe filled with well rubbed War Horse or a small cigar will suit admirably and yes I have seen it done.
At association meetings always listen for mention of old Harry having passed away or old Jimmy packing up because of his bad back. Here are sources of cheap equipment. Not necessarily good equipment because old beekeepers are noted for putting up with much loved and familiar equipment long after it really should have been changed.
Getting bees is relatively simple. Set out a hive with some used comb in it and wait for a swarm to take up residence. Success largely depends on how far away you are from the nearest beekeeper and could take some time or even fail altogether. A more certain way is to inform local police offices and pest control of officers, both of whom are told of swarms having landed in a variety of odd spots, that you are prepared to collect a swarm within a given distance of your home. You should undoubtedly get you some bees that way. Do have a care to check before your journey that they are actually a swarm of bees and not an underground bumble bee nest.
We now look at the management of the bees. It is a fact that the less bees are disturbed by the beekeeper the better they are for it and the more honey you will be able to gather. Disease in bees has become an ever-increasing problem over recent years and must be addressed at all costs. Gone are the days when a coarse beekeeper need only take the roof off a hive twice a year. Once in the Spring to check that the bees flying in and out are actually living there and not robbing and to put some supers on and again in late summer to take off the honey supers. Unless disease is tackled there is little doubt that you will lose your bees. There is of course the short term option of requesting the seasonal bees officer visit you to check your bees. I say “short term” because success in any case depends on what you tell him and I fancy the man will soon whittle out the over-coarse beekeeper who is merely using him so learn quickly from him what you will need to do. The “term” gets very short if you try the old trick of “while you’re in there could you mark and or clip the queen for me, add or remove supers” etc?
Otherwise management is mainly concerned with swarm prevention, queen rearing and honey harvesting. Swarm control means far too many visits to and manipulations of the hive and the colony or fiddling about with multi gated boards to suit the true coarse beekeeper. If you allow the bees to swarm in their own time you can save all that work. This also has the effect that you may well be able to collect the resulting swarm from where it rests and put it into another of the late Harry’s hives. You will also get a new queen in your existing hive without the bother of all that troublesome queen rearing.
This leaves only the honey harvesting. Although it may be unusual advise for the coarse beekeeper a certain amount of time spent in the preparation will in the long run save both time and money. Buy unwired wax for your honey supers it is cheaper. Cut sheets length-wise into 4 equal strips and t one strip at the top of each frame. Only the most profligate beekeeper would use more. The bees will form their own cells along and below these strips. When it comes to harvesting the honey remove the frames, cut carefully along the joint where the bee made cells meet the provided foundation. Cut the oblong block of honey filled comb into sizes to the cut comb containers or old margarine tubs depending on the destination of the honey. Properly labelled cut comb containers can be sold. That in old margarine tubs can be used to pay any tradesmen prepared to barter his labour for your honey. They are out there, I have had roofs mended and cars repaired.
The coarse beekeeper’s preparation of the bees for winter is to go indoors and forget about them until spring. There is no need to mention mouse guards because unless the late Harry had them fitted to the hives when he died the coarse beekeeper is unlikely to own any.
Similarly wasted is the advice not to brush any snow off the hives because it helps to insulate the colony. It would never cross the coarse beekeepers mind to do such a thing.
And so the coarse beekeeper’s year ends. If the advise on the unavoidable disease control has been followed the bees should survive the winter. They have after all survived several million of them without the ministrations of “proper beekeepers”.